Introducing The Gilded Age
Costume Designer: Kasia Walicka-Maimone
Marian Brook: Louisa Jacobson
As “Downton Abbey” was wrapping up there were rumors circulating that Julian Fellows was going to make a prequel series. Eventually that project became its own story, centering around the elites of New York City society of The Gilded Age of the 1880s. The show aptly named “The Gilded Age” first premiered on on HBO, January 24, 2022.
The series primarily revolves around “The 400” — elite in-crowd made up of old money and upstarts with new money trying to crash the inner circle as well as their friends, relations and servants.
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Who is Marian Brook?
After her father dies and leaves her penniless, Marian Brook, leaves her small Pennsylvanian town to live with her Aunts, Agnes and Ada, in New York City. Her Aunts are members of Old New York and would rather that Marian take on the role as proper young ladies of good breeding amongst the other blue bloods.
Marian is more of a soft-spoken polite rebel as she freely interacts with her neighbors, The Russells who of are super wealthy but are considered “New People” as well as other people who are not in “The 400’s” good graces.
Marian’s costumes reflect her rural background
Many of Marian’s costumes delicate and floral as a way to connect to her roots growing up in Pennsylvania. They are also prim and restrained unlike the bold and over-the-top costumes of the Bertha Russell or the lush jewel tones of her Aunt Agnes.
Her signatures colors are soft shades of yellows and blues. She does however wears other colors but those of her colors that differentiate her costumes from the other ladies.
Marian has around 30 costumes in season one. She rewears quite a few throughout the fist season as well rewears some in seasons two and three.
This page is a ranked list of Marian’s 10 best costumes from Season one of The Gilded Age. The costumes were ranked by aesthetics, memorability and how well they reflect Marian.
List is subject to change
Spoilers for Season One
10. The Dark Blue Outfit
Outside of her mourning grab, this dark blue outfit is Marian’s darkest colored looks. It was inspired by an outfit worn by First Lady Frances Cleveland. It’s a sheer pattern fabric with a textured trim along a solid dark blue bodice, collar and bustle. The bodice also has a ruffle down the front. Her skirt matches the sheer fabric and is layered over the solid blue material. The sheer fabric is slightly shorter than the rest of the skirt revealing that blue skirt is pleated at the hem.
While dark in color, the blue color is one of Marian’s signature colors and the sheerness of the fabric along with the texture adds softness.
For a pop of color there a pink fabric flower at the collar.
Marian also wears this costume in both seasons two and three.
9. The Yellow Party Dress
Marian’s arrival to New York parallels the Russells moving into their newly construction palatial mansion across the street from Agnes’ brownstone. Marian is also the opposite to the Russells, whereas she is penniless she makes up for it with deep connections to Old New York while the Russells are super wealthy but lack those family connections.
Shortly after moving in, The Russells host an informal party to show-off their house. Against her Agnes’ wishes, Marian sneaks out to make an appearance at the party.
Her bright yellow evening gown is very minimal. It made from a floral brocade. The neckline dips into a v-neck with a pleated collar. The sleeves are short gathered with flat bows on the edge. Her skirt is bustled and her underskirt is made from a lighter weight yellow material and is tiered.
Her accessories are also quite minimal as she wears just some simple earrings and a matching yellow ribbon collar tied off in a bow.
It’s a simple look but quite nice.
8. The Yellow and White Evening Gown
Much like other ladies of time, Marian has an assortment of wardrobe changes throughout the day. One her more regular dresses for the evening, which typically consists of dinner with her aunts, is this yellow floral and lace gown.
This is gold-tone yellow with a white floral layer that makes up the neckline and the long sleeves. Over that is a sewn down pleated drape that goes down the bodice adding a level of interest with a uniqueness to layering of the materials.
She rewear this gown in both seasons two and three
7. The Blue Floral Pinafore Dress
An informal, casual look for Marian is her blue floral jumper or pinafore, dress with white blouse layered underneath. The blouse has a leaf pattern.
This look is signature Marian as she favors this type of outfit with a pinafore over a blouse. It also one her of her trademark color and features a simple floral pattern. It’s a charming look.
6. The Purple Elopement Outfit
Throughout the series Marian has been romantically pursed by Mr. Raikes, the lawyer who settled her father’s estate and waived his fee for her. As Agnes doesn’t approve of his character, claiming he is “an Adventurer,” Marian feels her only move is to elope. Ultimately Mr. Raikes decides that love isn’t enough and he would rather marry for money and position.
Her outfit that she wears when she sneaks off is a purple satin dress and coat ensemble. The coat has wide almost cape-like sleeves and is embellished with black flat braided trim on the front and back with buttons on the front. The coat is lined with a slight darker fur.
Her matching dress has tab details with a lighter purple lace inset at the bodice. The collar is trimmed with a black velvet ribbon.
Sh wears a diamond-shaped brooch with simple earrings. She also sports a cowboy-like hat which is decorated with flowers and a purple ribbon. Love or hate these hats they do reflect her back to her “rural’ roots and make her slight out-step with refined New Yorkers.
5. The Gold and Blue Lace Evening Dress
This rich gold evening dress with a deep blue lace neckline and sleeves is another one of Marian’s staple costumes.
The gold layer is draped asymmetrically at the side and is also makes up the under skirt with the blue lace is positioned between the gold layers.
The blue collar has a unique petal-like design at the front with blue buttons running down.
In a video about costumes of the show, Jacobson said that This look was one her favorite costumes from season one. Calling it “unique” and “extravagant.”
She rewears this costume in season three.
4. The Ballgown
After getting her heart broken when Mr.Raikes backed out their elopement in the final episode, Marian reluctantly attends Gladys Russell’s coming out ball.
Her vey pale pistachio green bustled ballgown was based on John Singer Sargent’s 1885 portrait of Madame Poirson. It’s adorned with lace, white crystals and dark red fabric flowers. A large dark red flower is the focal point of the bodice and there is some discourse that it reflects her heartbreak as the combination of the very dark red and the pale yellow-green are disharmonious. However the costume designer wanted the odd color combinations which were in style in the 1880s so it’s part the design vision of the show’s over design.
It’s the only time in season one that Marian wears a ballgown and has the season finale it’s very memorable. So while colors are not all they could have it’s still a memorable look and has a lot of her signature motifs. Plus she waltzes with Larry Russell and any time those two share the screen it’s a plus.
3. The Blue Floral Dress
Another pretty day time look for Marian that epitomizes her signature motifs is her blue floral suit. The color is a bright light blue with a delicate white floral pattern. The skirt has a small bow-like bustle and is pleated at the hem offering some pretty moment as she walks down the street with Peggy Scott and runs into Larry.
She has white sheer inset which looks like a separate piece but it’s part of the dress. The same white fabric is used at her cuffs She wears a straw hat along with some orange glove which add a pop of contrast.
2. The Yellow Floral Dress
Very similar to her blue day dress is this floral print yellow one which she wears an to important luncheon for Bertha as she tries to further push into society.
This variation is a little more formal than the blue one as the fabric has sheen and there are embellishments.
The white insert is pleated adding a little more formality to the look. There also bigger bustle than her blue outfit.
She wears the same silver deer brooch in both variations of this style.
1. The Blue Lace Outfit
One of Marian’s prettiest and most memorable looks is worn in the first episode when she first meets her cousin Oscar van Rhijn as well as John Adams. Agnes wants to match with Marian with John but his affections lay elsewhere with her cousin Oscar.
It one of her pinafore style which a classic look for her. The bodice and skirt are made from a light blue fabric and it’s trim with black velvet ribbon and matching buttons. The bodice has a slight pattern and there black velvet panel at the sides of the skirt matching the trim. Her icy blue lace blouse adds delicacy. And is further off-set with a black velvet ribbon choker.
It’s a simple look that made interesting by the contrasting elements of the soft colors and texture with the black embellishment. It’s a classic Marian look that suits her style impeccably well.
