Like so many other movies, The 1982 adaption of the Hunchback is influenced by its times, in this case the infamous early 1980s. The costumes themselves are not super 80s looking, I mean when you think about the 80’s these costumes could have been so much more crazy. The costumes were design by Phyllis Dalton who designed the costumes for another little known 1980s medieval fantasy movie, I dunno maybe you have heard of it; The Princess Bride.

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame, picture image

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Esmeralda gets two costumes, which look very similar. The first one is a blue corset that has sleeves and a leaf-y gold pattern and a blue skirt with a green under skirt. The second is a pink cinch corset so her chemise is more part of the look.It also has a matching pink skirt.

Overall these two costumse don’t scream “I’M THE 80’s” but nor do they suggest a poor Gyspy girl. The fabric appears to be some form of satin. Satin did exist in the middle ages but it was very expensive. Now it’s very possible it was gifted to her but the costumes are too pristine looking.

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture iamge

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

The pink is an interesting color choice. Pink is a lighter tone for red and red is Esmeralda’s default color for films. But the choice of pink keeps her young and feminine looking and works against her becoming over-sexualized. That being said, Esmeralda’s costumes are not anything special, they’re pretty sedate and boring.

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Now the part everyone cares about; Quasimdo’s make-up! How does this version measure up to Laughton’s and Chaney’s looks? It measures up fairly well. Hopkins’s looks like Laughton’s Quasimodo. He’s got the protrusion, the one good eye, the ugly teeth and rounded nose. It’s a good interpretation of Quasimodo and Laughton’s look.

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

So what part of the costumes scream the 1980’s? The Hair! Oh, the hair in this, it’s totally the 80’s. Let‘ s start with Esmeralda. Esmeralda has big curly hair but a little more than that it’s layered to have more volume near her face.

And Quasimodo has a mullet, which heyday was the 80s’. The hair is where all the 80 glory lives.

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Lesley-Anne Down as Esmeralda, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

On the whole the costumes are average at best. There is nothing remarkable or memorable but the hair is a shining example of 80’s-ness.

Next 1982 article sets.

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Anthony Hopkins as Quasimodo, 1982 Hunchback of Notre Dame

This one mistake I have noticed, I’m sure there is more. This occurs during the attack on Notre Dame at about the 1 hour 39 minute mark in the version English. Esmeralda is sitting in her room and she hears the attack and goes to check it out. Between her hearing the attack and leaving her room she changes her costume.

Long Shot of Esmeralda wearing a second white chemise, 1956  The Hunchback of Notre Dame  picture image

Long Shot of Esmeralda wearing a second white chemise, 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

In the long shot on Esmeralda in her room she wearing a white chemise with short sleeves and a rope tied around her bodice. It has a Grecian vibe. However in the very next shot she is back in her normal long sleeve white chemise.

The shot after the long shot and Esmeralda is back in her standard white chemise, 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

The shot after the long shot and Esmeralda is back in her standard white chemise, 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

It’s jarring but not a big deal but this means there is another costume that they either cut or the replaced. Which costume do you prefer. I like the style of the mistake costume but her standard one is more in keeping with novel.

Next 1956 post- Conclusion

Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida), 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida), 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Two new products by the Hunchstore. (remember you can change the style on any Zazzle product to suit you taste and wallet)

This one is inspired by disney’s Esmeralda. My thought behind this is that it’s the perfect bag for people cosplaying Esmeralda to incorporate into their costumes and it’s not too out there for everyday use for those who want Esmeralda’s style infused into their wardrobe.

Gypsy Inspired Bag Wristlet Purses
Gypsy Inspired Bag Wristlet Purses by Hunchstore
Check out other Bohomenian Bagettes Bags at zazzle.com

This one is just a fun little mug for those who like Quasimodo

Team Quaismodo Mug
Team Quaismodo Mug by Hunchstore
Look at Quasimodo Mugs online at Zazzle.com
Quasimodo (Anthony Quinn) with a cat, 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Quasimodo (Anthony Quinn) with a cat, 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

Quasimodo – One of the Hallmarks of any good Hunchback of Notre Dame version is how Quasimodo’s look. It’s important to his character. The 1956 version tried to humanize his looks and it didn’t work, at all.

He hardly has any deformity and he’s not a hunchback, Quinn just slouches, so he’s a slouch-back.  Did they forget his hunch? Anyway.  His over-all costume is tan and green. It fits in with scope of the other designs of the movie but it’s too neat and clean for a recluse bell-ringer.

Frollo (Alain Cuny), 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture iamge

Frollo (Alain Cuny), 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

Frollo – Frollo’s costume from a design stand point is simple, he wears black, the end. Mess that up and you have an very incompetent costume designer.Of course ideally he wears a back hooded robe.

And this version got all those elements. There is some more design inserted into the costume but it doesn’t distract. He has wide sleeves typically called “poet sleeves.”  He also has seams that give his robe a padded look. He also sports a cape which gives a dramatic flair.

Robert Hirsch as Gringoire & Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame picture image

Robert Hirsch as Gringoire & Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame

Gringoire – Gringoire, like Quasimodo wears green and tan. His doublet has puffed sleeves that  extend into a false sleeve which gives of top-heaviness which was fashionable at the time. He also has the same padding like seams that Frollo has on his costume.

jean Danet as Phoebus,1956 Hunchback of Notre dame picture imge

Jean Danet as Phoebus,1956 Hunchback of Notre dame

Phoebus– Since Phoebus is rich and a soldier he get a few costume changes. He gets soldier suit and two civilian looks. However these looks are quite similar. All of his looks have sparkles which I’m sure is an anachronism. His costume also use richer fabrics than the other characters but the cut is identical to Gringoire’s costume.

Danielle Dumont as Fleur de Lys, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame picture image

Danielle Dumont as Fleur de Lys, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame

Fleur de Lys–  Fleur wears a light blue gown with a veiled hennin (the princess  pointy hat), which was the fashion in the 15th century.  Her style of dress is very on point with what women wore then, it has a high waistline and a v-neckline. Her gown is detailed with fur and appliques. Though appliques are yet an anachronism.

Philippe Clay as Clopin, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame picture image

Philippe Clay as Clopin, 1956 Hunchback of Notre dame

Clopin –  Being as he poses a beggar, Clopin wears tan and rougher fabrics. Unlike Quasimodo and Gringoire, his clothing are ragged. He also is typically seen wearing a cloth cap that matches his tan tunic.

Quasimodo (Anthony Quinn) giving flowers to Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida) 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Quasimodo (Anthony Quinn) giving flowers to Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida) 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

Overall, while the costumes in this movie are not to exciting they more or less work within the scope of a medieval movie. However they don’t stand out as being amazing. The worse thing about the costumes in this movie is the lack of effort on Quasimodo’s make-up. Even if you are going to humanize Quasimodo’s looks, he still NEEDS A HUNCH!

Next 1956 Article – The Sets

Set of Notre Dame from the 1956 version of The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Set of Notre Dame from the 1956 version of The Hunchback of Notre Dame

 

For this post, I’m just going to look at Esmeralda’s costumes from the 1956 version of the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame , picture image

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Esmeralda’s red costume is the most remembered costume from this movie. Now this was the first colorized movie version so prior to this, Esmeralda’s costume didn’t have “official” colors. Now I have said before that I hate Esmeralda in red and this movie could have started that trend in movies. However I’m not going to let my dislike of a color choice get in the way of this review.

Gina Lollobrigida 1956 as Esmeralda picture image

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda (1956)

This costume is much different from the previous Esmeralda costumes. Instead of a chemise with a corset over it and long skirt , we have a corset under the blouse and long skirt. Now one can argue that since Romani women were not much of a subject of medieval paintings it’s hard to know what exactly what they wore. However I highly doubt any Romani women would have wore what Esmeralda is depicted as wearing in this film. This costume really reads as a 1950’s rendering of a Gypsy. Is that a bad thing? No, not really.

How a common fashion styles impacts costumes in movies keeps things interesting, at least for me. However the cinch waist and defined bust line was a big hallmark of 50’s fashion.

So let me say what is wrong with costume from a more or less history/story context and then I will state what I think the positives are.

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda Hunchback of Notre Dame 1956 picture image

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda Hunchback of Notre Dame 1956

First off, the corset. The corset didn’t become and undergarment till the 16th century, and the definition wouldn’t have been so defined as this. I personally find the waist line on this costume to be too much.

Second I find the monochromatic color a little odd. The only other character in this movie too wear one color is Frollo (and in one scene Jehan). It just seems out of place and character to make her wear a single color.

I get what they were trying to do in putting her in one color, it was to make her stand out from all the extras, but if just makes it look like she is from a different movie. I think that is main compliant I have with this costume, it has no synergy with it and the other costumes making it look out of place.

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda Hunchback of Notre Dame 1956 image picture

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda Hunchback of Notre Dame 1956

There also the little matter of her dagger being used as as accessory. In the Book Esmeralda concealed her little dagger as it was against the law to carry one. Here it’s on full display which makes it seem more like a part of her costume rather than a plot point or a weapon. And then there are the darts.

A dart is a sewing technique where fabric is folded and sewn to give it a three dimensional shape. The dart was pioneered in the early 1950’s. Esmeralda’s costume has a total of two sets of darts. One sets on the bust and the other runs vertical on the front. It’s a utilitarian anachronism but it makes the costume look way more modern than the other costumes in the movie.

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame , poicture image

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Esmeralda second costume is a little bit more refined. She wears a yellow costume that has the same basic components as her red one but with a gold trim along the bust. This costume has different tones of gold which break it up nicely. Again it looks a bit modern for the style of the movie.

 

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame, picture image

Gina Lollobrigida as Esmeralda, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Then there is her third costume which is nothing more than a white shift. Which is exactly what it should be.

It probably her least interesting costume but it fits in the most with movie and the book. Also when she wears the shawl with it, I think it’s a nice touch.

Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida) dances, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Esmeralda (Gina Lollobrigida) dances, 1956 Hunchback of Notre Dame

All in all her costumes defiantly have a sense a style and the departure from the normal Gypsy look is refreshing. Do I personally love these costumes? No but I don’t hate them despite my nitpicking. I just wish that red costume as it is the iconic costume blended better in the film better.

Next 1956 Article – Costumes of the other Characters

Frollo (Alain Cuny), 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame picture iamge

Frollo (Alain Cuny), 1956 The Hunchback of Notre Dame

 

Esmeralda's White Costume, Notre Dame de Paris, picture iamge

Esmeralda’s White Costume, Notre Dame de Paris

It’s been a while since I have made a new Notre Dame de Paris Lens. This time it’s on Esmeralda white costume. I’m not sure if this costume is as polarizing as her green one. But I like it. I found it odd that with how over-the-top the Italian performance is that the white costume is so simple.

Weirder still, I find the World Tour cast choice odd. There is is like two versions of this costume but the dancers where a version that look the costume you seem in practically in every other version.

anyway enjoy

http://www.squidoo.com/esmeralda-white-dress

Helene Segara as Esmeralda in the Prison dress Notre Dame de Paris design Fred Sathal picture image

Helene Segara as Esmeralda in the Prison dress design Fred Sathal Notre Dame de Paris

Here an idea for the lady who loves Notre Dame de Paris and wants to combine it into a ghoulish Halloween Costume.

Make the white dress she wears in the second act. I would suggest Butterick 5710 or Simplicity 1909 for the dress. Just add some flutter sleeve by cutting the sleeve bigger and gathering it along the shoulder and add ruffle to the bottom. Ruffle are easy to make. Click here for a tutorial. Of course you model after the Italian production which the dress was plain and white. I would suggest Simplicity 2247.

Then buy a fake nooseto either wear or carry add some undead make-up and voila a Ghoul Notre Dame de Paris Esmeralda.

Varations – You could get a plain white chemise and be book Esmeralda or make a shredded version of the Notre Dame dress and apply some Zombie Makeup and be Zombie Esmeralda. A Zombie Esmeralda could also be a applied to the Disney version as well.

The Undead Notre Dame de Paris Esmeralda is a costume I would make for Halloween.

 

Esmeralda Disney Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image
Disney Esmeralda Hunchback of Notre Dame dancing

So you want to Dress up as Esmeralda?

You can also click here for more up-to-dat options for buying pieces for  Esmeralda’s Costume. 

Esmeralda is a great choice for a Halloween costume. It’s fun and being a Disney character’s costume it’s identifiable (which means more candy ). Plus you can wear the piece in your day-to-day life. Or you can buy a Pre-made Esmeralda Costume that are morelike generic Gypsies costumes.

The great thing about the costume is that you can buy all components that you need.  So it’s an easy DIY costume.

Here what you need; A white peasant blouse, purple skirt, darker purple hip scarf, blue waist cincher or corset, a pink headband or scarf, and her jewelry.

so here are some items you can buy to make her costume or a costume inspired by here’s. (I’ll list three or so for each remember you can also check my Esmeralda Lens for more )

White Blouse

Skirt

Hip scarf

Corset

Comes in Blue

Head piece

Jewelery

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda with Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda with Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

The Costumes in the 1923 version of Hunchback are for the most part good. They look appropriate to fashions of the late middle ages. However with the exceptions of Chaney’s make-up for Quasimodo the costumes are not spectacular. There is no one costume that stands out and is memorable. They are just nice and appropriate to both the characters and the times. However there are two costumes I would like to discuss in addition to Chaney’s make-up since Chaney is the main selling point of the film.

Lon Chaney as Quasimodo 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Lon Chaney as Quasimodo 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Lon Chaney was a genius with make-up. It’s not wonder that he has been dubbed the “Man of a Thousand Faces.” His most memorable transformations of his own face in his film career were the Phantom and Quasimodo.

For Quasimodo, Chaney looked at illustrations  by Hugo to get an accurate look. For his cheeks Chaney used cotton and colodium. Colodium is a skin sealer. What he would do is paint spirit gum, which is an adhesive, apply a wad of cotton to it and then cover it with colodium. The process was repeated to build up the cheeks to the desire look. This also allowed Chaney to reuse the cheeks for a few day with minimal effort. For the hunch he wore a 15-20 pound plaster hump. The hump was held in place by a leather harness that attract at the waist. It also had straps at the shoulders that attached to the belt to keep Chaney in a hunch position.

He also wore a rubber suit over the harness in the pillory scene. He covered it with hair to give Quasimodo an animal-like look. Early in the film he had hair on his knuckles but he did away with that as the filming went one. Chaney also employed false teeth and a wig.

Lon Chaney as Quasimodo 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Lon Chaney as Quasimodo 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

I don’t think the Quasimodo’s look has aged as well as  the Phantom’s make-up but Chaney did help solidify movie make-up and set a precedent for the look of future Quasimodos so I do give kudos to the make-up in this version.

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

So there are a few  costumes I want to discuss, three of Esmeralda’s and  Marie’s costumes. Esmeralda has four costume changes but I want to look at three, her normal outfit, prison dress and her robe. The Costumes were  supervised by Gordon Magee, that they only costume credit I found.

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Esmeralda’s normal gypsy costume is based on a 1891 illustration. You can see it in the vest, short sleeves, the shoes and the mid calf hem line. While I like this costume as a whole it is inaccurate to the Romani convention that ankles should not be expose but their is another force at work in Esmeralda’s costume; the 1920’s.

Esmeralda’s costume has a more shapeless silhouette, long beaded necklaces and the sleeves look straighter and look more like modern t-shirt.

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

However Esmeralda’s prison dress and her robe look more like a product of the 20’s. Her prison dress has a shapeless silhouette and the way it cinches in at the waist and puffs over is very 20s. Plus the short hemline. Hemlines that hit mid-calf was the style in 1923 for hem.

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

However the robe is the worse offender of Esmeralda’s costumes. In a deleted scene from the movie, Quasimodo trades candles for clothing for Esmeralda to wear. He gets a robe or a “dressing gown” that has a fur trim and looks to be made of velvet with a satin belt.

Number 1; robes didn’t not exist at this time in Europe.. Robe/dressing gown came in to fashion in the 18th century  because orientism was fashionable. Number 2; given the materials, fur, satin and velvet, it’s doubtful that a mere chest of candles could be traded for a garment made from these materials. Beside those  issues, the robe features  the signature 1923 hemline and the shoes. The shoes that Esmeralda wears with the robe are flats with a flower detail. Clearly not shoes wore in the middle ages.

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

However the worse offender of the 1920 style in a costume is Marie’s. Marie is Clopin’s wife. Marie actually has two costumes but they’re very similar.  Both are very shapeless dresses that flattened out her chest which is  the classic 1920 silhouette.

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

One  has almost kimono-esque sleeves that have a scallops detail at the edge. Both hemlines hit at the ankles but one it’s a handkerchief hem, so the longest point hit the ankle.

Handkerchief hems were popular in the 1910-1920’s and it was seen in Ancient Greece.  While it was used in Antiquity it was not at all popular in 1482. The other one is pointed with a scallop edge which makes it appear shorter. While Esmeralda’s costumes harken to the 20’s, Marie’s flaunts it to the point that it looks really out of place.

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Eulalie Jenson as Marie 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

The costumes are appropriately medieval for the men and the women’s costumes are mixed with the style of the 1920 to make they look more stylish regardless of period appropriateness.

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame picture image

Patsy Ruth Miller as Esmeralda 1923 Hunchback of Notre Dame

Pictures came from the Philip J Riley Book

Next Time – The Sets

Notre Dame de Paris set from the 1923 version of Hunchback picture image

Notre Dame de Paris Set from the 1923 version of Hunchback


Julie Zenatti as Fleur de Lys Notre Dame de Paris picture image

Julie Zenatti as Fleur de Lys Notre Dame de Paris

Fleur de Lys; Costumes of Notre Dame de Paris

It’s still kind of a work in progress but it for the most part functionally done. the Lens is broken down for components instead of by casts.

Anne Menson as Fleur de Lys  picture image

Anne Menson as Fleur de Lys

Compared to Esmeralda’s costumes, I find Fleur de Lys’ costume a little plain. It’s a nice enough dress but a little lacklaster for the stage. I actully like it when she has a more intricate hairstyle and I like the romantic versions of the costume but with more vibrate saturated pink tone. In a  way I prefer the concept design of Fleur de Lys better. I wonder how the different  versions would have altered it. But then you have to wonder “what does the front look like?”

Fleur de Lys design for Notre Dame de Paris picture image

Fleur de Lys design for Notre Dame de Paris

Tell me what you think What do you think of Fleur de Lys’s costume from Notre Dame de Paris or the Notre Dame de Paris Costumes in general?

Hopefully I can do at least two more of these Notre Dame de Paris Costume lenses; one for the prison dress and one on Esmeralda’s bonus costumes. We’ll see about the male costumes.