Introducing The Gilded Age
Costume Designer: Kasia Walicka-Maimone
If you were a fan of Downton Abbey while it was still airing than you might have caught wind of Julien Fellow’s project, The Gilded Age, originally pitched as a prequel to Downton Abbey. The project soon became its own independent story, finally the first season premiered on HBO, January 24, 2022.
Like Downton Abbey, it sports an ensemble cast made up of renowned Broadway actors. Set in early 1880s New York City, The Gilded Age primarily revolves around an elite in-crowd—”The 400”—made up of old money and upstarts with new money trying to crash the inner circle.
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Who is Bertha Russell?
The wife of a train magnate, Bertha Russell is ultra wealthy and super ambitious. In season one she tries to maneuver herself into “The 400,” the exclusive society of New York’s most wealthy and influential. Bertha and her husband, George, are ruthless in their ambitions, but they are devoted to each other and one the best depictions of a marriage of equals.
Bertha dresses to impress but she doesn’t know how to dress for New York high society. Her wardrobe is often audacious, gaudy, outlandish, and tacky compared to the more refined blue-bloods.
Bertha’s Costumes Reflect Her Alienation
While many of the costumes in The Gilded Age are in-line with historical accuracy, Bertha’s are not. They skew either later in the 1880s or modern. This further separates her apart from the Old New Yorkers. Her costumes also tend to have metallic elements which is supposed to be a tribute to her husband’s career.
It should noted that Carrie Coon, who plays Bertha Russell, was a last-minute casting decision, so the production had to scramble to create/alter her costumes. In fact, she was pregnant throughout shooting, so the costumes had to accommodate her bump.
With all that in mind, this list ranks Bertha’s 10 best costumes from season one. They were ranked on aesthetics, how they reflect her character, and memorability.
Please note that this list is subject to change.
Spoilers for Season One.
10. The Copper & Striped Gown
This is an odd costume of Bertha’s. It is a weird combination of a copper over a gray striped fabric with a light blue sheer gathered-insert at the bust.
However the more one looks at it the seemly disharmonious elements become more interesting. The look is prime example of The Gilded Age’s costumes blending into the sets. It’s outlandish and it’s very Bertha.
Fun fact: This costume was nicknamed “The Eiffel Tower Dress,” and was a favorite of Carrie Coon.
9. The Moving-In Outfit
At the start of the show the Russells move-in into their palatial home across from prominent old New Yorkers. For her introductory scene Bertha wears a silk satin light blue ensemble that mixes elements of day wear with evening wear.
This costume very much showcases how out-step she is with the early Victorian fashion sensibility and that’s she doesn’t know how to dress appropriately for society. While it is a strange look for the period, the ball-fringe and embroidery of her outerwear is lovely.
This outfit also highlights the matching of costumes to the sets as the soft light blue of Bertha’s costume perfectly matches Bertha’s regal tastes.
8. The Red Velvet Gown
Bertha and George’s ambitions align when they invite the Morris’, prominent couple in New York Society, to their house for dinner. Bertha’s costume is a jewel tone red velvet gown with a gold lace standing collar and cuffs.
This costume is a little more fashion forward for the period as there were gowns later in the period that had this type of collar. Bertha is ahead of her time and looking like queen.
It’s also very reminiscence of the 1892 John Singer Sargent painting of Mrs. Hugh Hammersley.
7. The Chartreuse Afternoon Dress
At the start of the series Bertha and Marian are mirror characters of each other as they are both introduced to New York Society at the same time. Bertha is rich but is “New” as she and her husband are self-made new money while
Marian, though penniless, has the proper family connections. So Marian is warmly welcomed into the fold and Bertha is kept at arm-length in hopes that she be charitable and nothing more.
This dynamic is perfectly showcased when Bertha attends a charity that Marian also attends. This scene also introduces other pivotal characters.
On this outing, Bertha wears a muted chartreuse afternoon outfit with gray trim and floral pattern. It’s a strange color combination that makes her stand-out and ostracizes her the ladies.
6. The Red & Black Afternoon Look
This costume of Bertha’s might be two looks. It’s a black and red afternoon dress. She first wears it when she gets voted on the board of The Red Cross. In the following scene she wears it with either a tweak to the red blouse or a different red blouse. This same alternative blouse is worn when Mrs. Astor pays her a visit in the finale episode.
Both looks are very similar. They have a black floral lace overlay over the blouse and skirt. It just seems to be a difference if two red blouses but the both versions are lovely, bold and dramatic.
5. The Silvery Luncheon Outfit
In order achieve her aim of getting into elite New York Society, Bertha manages to have lunch with Ward McAllister. He serves a prime point of entry to the “400.” The two get along right a way as he loves money and gossip.
To this luncheon Bertha wears a metallic silver afternoon outfit. It has a subtle pattern with a pleated overlay and dramatic draping at the hips. It’s Bertha’s style just reigned in enough to impress Ward.
4. Gladys’ Coming Out Ballgown
Throughout the first season Bertha is at odds with her family over how she handles her daughter, Gladys. Bertha treats Gladys like a child and keeps her one a tight leash even though she is an adult and she already be out in society. Bertha only wants to bring Gladys out only if she can fill the ballroom with the right sort of people.
By the end of the season both they both get their wish as Gladys is out with a ball that is attended by the upper echelon of old New York. Bertha’s ballgown is visually striking. The overlay is white with a bold black leaf pattern. This overlay makes up a long train making look like a Queen. It’s very signature of Bertha’s style but more in keeping with the aesthetics of the old New York crowd as she now part of them.
This gown was inspired by a House or Worth gown from between 1898-1900.
3. The Peacock Outfit
After getting snub on hosting a charity bazaar Bertha’s husband, George, swiftly shuts down the whole event as soon as it opens by buying it out. It’s a boss move to get back at the society ladies who thought they were too good for Bertha’s grand ballroom.
During this very memorable scene—which was used in promotions for season one—Bertha wears a turquoise, silk satin outfit with large peacock plumes down the front. The costume reflects her boldness and power as her husband executes revenge. It is easily one of the best scenes in season one.
2. The Newport’s Casino Outfit
After falling into Ward McAllister’s good graces Bertha is invited to Newport, Rhode Island, where the fashionable old New York vacation in luxury. All her Newport looks are well suited to the locale. While they use lightweight white fabrics they all have a bold contrasting color which is classic Bertha.
Bertha’s best Newport costume is her she afternoon dress that she wears to the casino. The white fabric is a textured pattered and is accented with a deep blue. The combination of blue and white is very nautical which is very appropriate to Newport.
1. The Academy of Music Red Gown
Arguably one of Bertha’s most jaw-dropping looks is what she wore to the Academy of Music. It’s a stunning bright red gown complete with an equally beautiful beaded velvet cloak. It’s Bertha at her most chic as she tries to fit in better with old New York.
Despite the boldness and drama of this costume this is one her more restrained and less ornately-decorated looks as she trying to impress the blue-bloods of New York. She still has her signature 3D flowers at the shoulders and along the train. Elegant draping at the chest, waist and bustle makes this look a stunner, and the darker red beaded cloak is heavenly.
