Introducing The Gilded Age
Costume Designer: Kasia Walicka-Maimone
HBO’s “The Gilded Age” Season 2 premiered on October 29th 2023 and features an ensemble cast. As its name suggests the series is set during 1880s a.k.a “The Gilded Age” in New York City.
Season two starts on Easter 1883 and set against the ‘Opera Wars’ which saw the opening of Metropolitan Opera against the ultra exclusive Academy of Music.
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What is Bertha Russell scheming in Season 2?
Season one saw Bertha maneuvering to get into the upper echelons of New York society. An elusive group “ruled” by Caroline Astor. Season two sees Bertha in the club but missing one key asset: a box at The Academy of Music. This perceived snub prompts her to side with the Metropolitan Opera House where she can be at the center of society effectively usurping Mrs. Astor. So it is the Metropolitan Opera versus The Academy of Music or really Bertha Russell versus Caroline Astor: the Queen Bee.
Bertha’s Costumes Reflect her New Money and Scheming for Power
Much like in season one, Bertha’s costumes of second season are at odds with the styles of the old money. Bertha opts for bold colors with details that take inspiration from later periods of fashion. She favors lots of contrast with diagonal and wide elements with very large hats. This details gives her prominence in the frame thus communicating power and authority.
Her fashion choices also reflect her “new money” instead of inherited wealth and this season she is own her sense of “newness” instead of kowtowing to the old ways.
With all that in mind, this list ranks Bertha’s 10 best costumes from season two. They were ranked on aesthetics, how they reflect her character, and memorability. Bertha’s costumes are often gaudy, outlandish, tacky, audacious and memorable.
Please note that this list is subject to change.
Spoilers for Season Two.
10. The Gilded Gown
Bertha’s scheme for the opera wars is to entice the old-guard of New York society to take boxes at the Metropolitan.
Her plan is to hold a dinner to force them to take sides by announcing that the Metropolitan will open the same day as the Academy. To sweeten the Metropolitan’s cause she as famed opera singer of the era, Christine Neilson, perform in her home.
Her costume is a three-quartered sleeved gold silk gown that screams “gilded age.” Lace-like embroidery with striking 3D black details at the shoulder and at the skirt make for a bold outfit.
9. The Pink Evening Gown
One of Bertha’s successes in season two involves hosting the prize of the season, The Duke of Buckingham, at her house in Newport. This means a formal dinner to show him off to society.
As hostess, Bertha wears a costume that is a blend of colorful floral patterns with white lace and wide coral silk basque waistband. The coral silk is also in the skirt and in the bustle. The contrasting textures adds a sense of dynamic femininity which suits Bertha.
8. The Green and Blue Day Dress
As means to keep a firm hold on society, Mrs. Astor tries to buy off Bertha with a box at the Academy of Music, a most covetous prize. While enjoying all the perks of being a friend with Ms. Astor, Bertha doesn’t want to her lackey. Bertha wants to rule.
This dynamic between to the two formidable ladies comes to head at a charity meeting. Mrs. Astor publicly announces that Bertha will be taking a box at the Academy only for Bertha to rebuke her by saying she staying with the Metropolitan.
In this scene Bertha wears day dress that is mostly blue with bright pops of bright green. In keeping with Bertha’s style, she has some diagonal strips to add a dynamic pop of interest along with a green center panel.
The skirt has some gray floral print fabric panels that make up the bustle. She wears a large hat with equally large feather to finish off the look which completes her over-the-top striking yet gaudy outfit.
7. The Peony Day Dress
In a meeting with Mrs. Astor, the two formidable ladies discuss the Opera Wars setting the tone of one major plot for the rest of the season. Bertha wears a cream silk outfit that is decorated with peonies.
It’s a more conservative and demure ensemble for Bertha but it’s meant to disarm Mrs. Astor as Bertha is contemplating moving against her in the Opera Wars siding with the new Metropolitan.
This costume was reworn in third season.
6. The Ruffled Sheer White Dress
Many of the scenes in season two are set in Newport, Rhode Island, where New York’s elite summered. As it’s on the ocean, Bertha wears more casual summery attire.
One her more casual looks is sheer white with lots knife pleated ruffles details. It perfectly encompasses Bertha’s wealth and it one her more laid-back costumes.
5. The Newport Evening Gown
At the end of episode two, Ward McAllister hosts a party in Newport. It’s here that Bertha meets Mrs. Winterton, the new and young wife of a very influential member of society whom Bertha thinks she sway over to the Metropolitan’s cause. Bertha is horrified to learn that the new Mrs. Winterton is her former Lady’s maid.
Bertha wears a gray and blue evening gown with a blue diagonal sash across the front of the bodice. It has puffed shoulders that uses the skirt fabric. The skirt is made with a bold blue graphic pattern fabric inspired by House of Worth.
4. The Metropolitan Tour Dress
As a way of gaining support from the “old crowd,” Bertha takes some of them on a tour of the Metropolitan. Bertha however is just confronted with more issues, one involving her son.
On this tour, Bertha wears a dramatic day dress. It’s dove gray with long hanging, almost cape-like sleeves. Large black appliqués have been sewn on the sleeves and bodice. The thick pleating attaching the sleeves help to widen her silhouette thus making her look commanding. The high constant with black lace against the soft gray fabric sums up Bertha’s style perfectly.
Bertha rewears this outfit in the seventh episode of season three.
3. The Fireworks Gown
Another historical event of the note the is depicted in season two is the opening of the Brooklyn Bridge. Since the Russells are patrons they are invited to the reception hosted at the architects’ home and attended by President Arthur.
Bertha’s red and blue gown is meant to pay tribute to the colors of the American flag. The blue flower appliqués are direct reference to the fireworks. Matching blue beaded fringe at the shoulders and at the bodice adds a metallic sparkle to the costume, a detail that Bertha loves in her fashions.
2. The Opera Opening Gown
The culmination of season two is finding out which New York City opera house will have the more triumphant opening. Due to some backhanded dealing, Bertha secures the Duke to appear in her box at the Metropolitan, placing herself at the center of New York elite society.
Her mint green opera gown is inspired by a House of Worth gown. It has the same double-puffed shoulder sleeves which gives prominence to her silhouette. The gown has a similar pattern to the gown she wore during the Newport party in episode two. The graphic pattern is a darker shade of green to add contrast.
The green color is a reference to her new money and also contrasts against the red of the Metropolitan, further making her standout at the center of society from her central box.
1. The Silver Evening Gown
Ever the scheming social climber, Bertha contrives a way to sit next to the Duke of Buckingham at a formal dinner, in a seat originally chosen for Mrs. Winterton, her former ladies’s maid. Bertha offers to host the Duke at her Newport home, effectively stealing the Duke away from the Wintertons twice in a single evening.
Bertha is on full display for this dinner wearing a spectacular silver gown, which has a beaded skirt overlay and pleated bodice details. There’s contrast with brown-ish sleeves, waistband and just a hint at the center of the bodice. The three-quarter sleeves are also sheer with beading as well. It is simply stunning.
Bertha rewears this gown again in the fifth episode of season three.
