Bertha Russell – The Future of New York Society
Bertha Russell: Carrie Coon
Costume Designer: Kasia Walicka-Maimone
The third season of “The Gilded Age” premiered in the summer 2025. It picks up six months after season two, roughly early spring of 1884.
Bertha Poised to Take Over the World
After her triumph in the opera wars Bertha is angleing another victory for her family, the marriage of her daughter Gladys to a member of the British aristocracy. This match would put her family in an unquestionable position as the leaders of American Society, more so than they already were with their seemingly vast wealth, but it comes at the cost to the overall happiness of her family. Unfortunately for Bertha she has a tunnel vision when it comes to this match.
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Bertha’s Costumes Reflect her Ambitions and Lack of Tack
Much like in the previously two seasons Bertha’s fashions have not evolved, she maintains her nouveau riche sense of style. She opts for bold colors as well as metallics. She also still favors large scale hats and silhouettes the showcase her prominences in a scene as well as reflects her perceived power in society.
Bertha’s fashions are often unapologetic and unafraid which makes for some divisive choices. this list ranks Bertha’s 10 best costumes from season three. They were ranked on aesthetics, how they reflect her character, and memorability.
Bertha’s costumes are often gaudy, outlandish, tacky, audacious and memorable. Some of looks are rewears from past seasons but not listed past season best costume lists.
List is subject to change.
Spoilers through season three.
10. Yellow & Black Outfit
In the first half of season three, Gladys and her mother are at odds. Bertha is leaking to press that Gladys is engaged to the Duke of Buckingham but Gladys is in love with Billy Carlton, a banker from a member of a good New York old money family but not up to the level of a duke. Bertha finally dashes the hopes of Billy’s mothers when she threatens Billy’s future prospects as well as Gladys if the Carltons keep pushing the match.
Her costume as she dresses Mrs.Carlton down is very classic Bertha. It’s a shocking shade of chartreuse green-yellow with black lace draping at the top of sleeves which gives her silhouette width. There are also black floral details adding to the contrast.
She of course pairs it with an oversized hat.
9. Sidmouth Dinner Gown
Bertha maneuvering Gladys to marry a Duke proved to not a great idea after she learns that Gladys is miserable but not because of her Husband but from her overbearing sister-in-law. She is determined to make it right by once again helping Gladys to be happy as the new Duchess. To this end Bertha travels to Sidmouth castle and gives Gladys some pointers.
For her first dinner at Sidmouth castle Bertha wears gown that is more conservative for her but still suits her sense of style. It’s a high neckline gown with wide a green velvet trim at the neck, along the bust and more or less draping at the arms. The neckline has sheer white inset that is structured at the shoulders.
The body of the gown as well as the sleeves are green with floral design.
It’s an interesting gown for Bertha, still odd even for her but it works.
8. Metallic Day Dress
One of Bertha’s fashion ethos is dressing in metallic as it links back to her husband’s business empire. Thus this day look of Bertha is quintessentially her. It’s a combination of silver and gold lace with gold satin detailing down the sides, the bustle, and the cuffs.
It’s both imposing and underplayed for Bertha which is perfect as it’s a casuals day look.
This costume was by Tirelli Trappetti.
7. Winter Dress
Season three opens with snowfall in early spring thus all the characters dress warm. For her first costumes of season three Bertha wears a fur-lined dress in a combination of soft gray and yellow. The color combination is softer for her but still in colors she wears a lot. The sleeves has a texture but perfectly match the gray of the rest of the dress while the yellow has a floral pattern.
This dress was made by Eric Winterling.
6. Black and White Newport Dress
The fashionable set of New York society summer in Newport, Rhode Island. Since it by the sea the fashions are lighter and breezier. For a charity luncheon Bertha sticks to her signature of high contrast sense of style with this black and white number.
The white parts are made from a sheer lightweight material loosely draped over another white fabric which adds that classic soft seaside vibe. Layer over that is a black fabric that gives that pop of contrast that Bertha is known for even in her Newport looks.
This one is less nautical but no less striking.
5. White Floral Newport Dress
The final scene of season three takes place the following day after Bertha’s Newport ball. After the success of the ball she think her marriage is in a safe place but alas George is not up to forgiving Bertha for her social plotting at the expensive of her family’s happiness. So while she hears some good news from Gladys she is left devastated as George leaves for New York.
Her costume is one of her white Newport looks that she previously wore in season two. While it’s white it’s not as light weight as her other Newport looks. It made from a floral textured fabric with a pleated collar, cuffs, and hemline. The skirt as a modest bustle which suits the ease of life by the sea.
4. Black and White Floral Gown
While it seems that Bertha plotting to make Gladys a Duchess goes awry several times from several front she manages to get the Duke on board with the settlement thus clearing the way for the marriage. This all comes out during a dinner welcoming the Duke back into her home much to the horror of Gladys.
At this dinner Bertha rewears a season one gown. She first wore this gown season one episode one. It’s a black white gown with asymmetrical draping and floral details. The floral details are both used at contrasting pattern in the fabric as well three-dimensional accents at the shoulder and on the skirt. It’s layered with sheer black material.
It’s quintessentially very Bertha in all her glory.
3. Blue Day Dress
As part of Gladys trying to take control of her life by marrying for love she runs away to Billy’s house. In the morning Bertha takes Gladys back home.
Bertha’s morning outfit is a bright blue dress that is a combination of pleated sheer blue with a matching blue floral print. The pleated details are at the shoulders with shorter ruffles and a longer flutter sleeve-like overlays which gives Bertha her signature commanding majesty essence.
2. Red Ball Gown
As scandal engulfs Mrs. Astor’s daughter, she pulls out of hosting the end of the season Newport Ball. Thus the hosting of the Ball falls to Bertha. Despite raising issues in the Russell household Bertha is determined to showcase her family as a strong united front.
The season three finale has two balls, Bertha’s end of season ball and The Newport Black community’s Ball. For Bertha’s Newport Ball she illuminates it with electricity. The thought behind the ball is that the guests wear more saturated colors like jewel tones. Whereas the other ball is softer as it’s lit with candles.
For the ball Bertha wears red – one of her most dramatic colors. The design was inspired by a House of Worth circa 1898-1900.
Bertha’s gown is a red silk satin asymmetrical layered on white which adds contrast. The red layer is used for the bustle and train.
She wears a tiara with a layer multi-strand pearl necklace layered over a large diamond necklace which only adds to the drama. This is the same necklace Bertha wore to the MET at the end of season two.
This costume was by Tirelli Trappetti.
1. Green Opera Gown
Bertha’s plans for the Duke and Gladys is dealt a major blow at the MET when she sees the Duke talking to another heiress. Despite her embarrassment she is still dressed to the nine in finery.
Her opera gown is made from mottled green fabric layered under darker green fabric. The darker green fabric draped over the shoulder which gives the look a texture. The silhouette has a wider cut which makes her look imposing.
She wears a very intriguing pearl necklace that has loops making it look like a bow.
It’s more understate for Bertha but it a gorgeous gown.
More Bertha Russell Costume Rankings
- Bertha’s 10 Best Costumes from Season 1 of The Gilded Age
- Bertha’s 10 Best Costumes from Season 2 of The Gilded Age
